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Thursday, April 14, 2011

On the trail of the elusive Caula river lagoon.



Stephan and I are on a mission to find every single swimming hole in the Muga Valley!

After our hike to Santa Magdalena (since we weren't tired enough), I convinced Stephan that we should find this elusive natural pool: the thermal pool of La Caula (La Caula is a stream that feeds the Muga River). I had read about it, and seen some beautiful pictures of the site. I had even located it on Google Earth, but I had not been able to find it on my own two feet. So, as we we drove down from La Salut to Boadella, we stopped and asked a local gentleman about it. First mistake: the Google Earth marker is wrong. The "gorga" as they call the swimming hole here was in fact in Les Escaules. I tell the gentleman that I had been to Les Escaules the week before and had been unable to find it. He continued with his directions, and after asking him many questions, I finally figured out where I went wrong. I felt confident that we would find it today.

So, with what we thought were definitive directions, we drove to Les Escaules. We parked at the entrance to this miniature town (smaller than Sant Llorenç) and climbed up a paved road that took us to a strip of houses built on the cliff. As soon as we hit the last house, and before reaching the top of the hill (about a 5 minute uphill), we went down a small footpath that leads to the neighbors' vegetables gardens. Soon, we noticed that the footpath joined a small stream, and we walked along it, with ferns and tall reeds whipping past our legs.
And sure enough, a few minutes later, after crossing the small stream through a high-tech bridge consisting of a 2x4 plank, we were there. First, we saw nothing, and then we saw the fall, the lagoon. I had a moment of almost religious ecstasy.

Getting down to the water was not so easy. We had to go down a short but steep slippery strip of wet rock and soil. Stephan jumped down. I scurried down in a sitting position (that is, on my ass). At the bottom, we did not find much place to spread a towel in. Possibly, in the summer, when the water level goes down, there is more dry space.

Next, Stephan went to a possible water source, and put his hand in to see if the water was in fact warm. It was not. But, it was definitely warmer than the water at the Muga River. We reached the conclusion that there must be a thermal water source, but it is clearly not the only one. We will probably go back another day, with more time, and explore at length, and see if we cannot reach the true source, over the waterfall.

Next, we went to the Salt de La Caula, a very short drive away. The water from the natural pool we just visited falls down this escarpment, before reaching the Muga River. We had been here last year, but I couldn't find the pictures. First, though, you have to get over the disappointment that this waterfall is by the road, facing a drab restaurant with somewhat odd management.

I think that when we first came to see the Salt de La Caula (as it is referred to here), there was either more water, and was more impressive; or there was less water, and the exposed rock was what struck me. (I remember the waterfall being very colorful, and I have a feeling that it was the rock, with all of the different mineral deposits.) Anyway, I took a couple of pictures, which I know are not as good as the ones we took last year (que será, será...)

But, we did climb the stairs that go around the waterfall, and into the caves. Those were fun. I took some pictures with Stephan in them to see the scale.

You can view more pics here.

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